Cycling the Alpe Adria Bike Path: From Salzburg to Grado with a detour to Slovenia’s Hidden Gem
One of the most loved bike paths in Europe is the Alpe-Adria. The variety of scenery you will experience is vast from the beautiful city of Salzburg through the Alps into Italy and down the warm waters of the Adriatic Sea. But why stick strictly to the path when you can spice things up with a detour to one of Slovenia’s most beautiful wine regions?
Kicking off your Alpe Adria adventure from Salzburg to Gastein Valley
Your adventure kicks off in the picturesque city of Salzburg, Austria, the birthplace of Mozart and the Sound of Music. I recommend taking an extra day to experience this beautiful city. The Alpe Adria bike path officially starts here, taking you through the Salzach River valley, flanked by the towering Alps. The path is well-paved and mainly flat, making for an easy start as you soak in views of alpine meadows and charming villages through Golling. Then, there will be a kick-up over the Lueg Pass, which is short but spikey, but no problem on an ebike. Then, you have a great downhill through the gorge and onto Werfen, with its imposing castle perched high above.
On through the valley, passing farmland and the impressive ski jump at Bischofshofen. If you are lucky, some training might be going on when you pass. It’s a heart-pumping sport that is not for the faint-hearted.
Climbing up to the Gastein Valley, you will cycle beside the main road through the tunnel, but don’t worry; you are separated from the traffic. The Gastein Valley is impressive with its steep sides and pretty villages. There are plenty of places to rest, and on a hot day, you can dip your toes in some cool or freezing water! Bad Gastein is known for its waterfall and its healing waters. Any village or town with “Bad” at the beginning means natural springs provide many healing qualities in the water. Try approaching the steep hill through Bad Gastein first thing in the morning when your legs are fresh. Otherwise, you will need to tackle the 15% with tired legs!
Through the North-South divide and down to Villach
From Böckstein, at the end of the Gastein Valley, the train will take you through the “Tauernschleuse,” which takes you from the North to the South of the Alps. The journey only takes around 15 minutes, so it’s short and sweet. Just remember to book your ticket.
The road from Mallnitz down to Obervellach is as exhilarating as it is impressive. It is a good idea to stop at points to let your brakes cool down, giving you time to take photos and soak up your surroundings.
From there, it is a leisurely cycle all the way down to Möllbrucke, where you join the Drau River, then on through Spital, ending up in the vibrant town of Villach.
Villach is a pretty town and a great place to overnight and catch your breath, sample some local cuisine and watch the world go by in the cobbled pedestrian area in the centre.
Crossing Borders: Villach to Tarvisio and onto Gemona del Friuli
Leaving Villach, the route begins a gentle climb towards the Austrian-Italian border. You’ll wind up the hillside over the border and pass the old train station, cruising into the town of Tarvisio via the new bike path. This border town is known for its hearty Italian-Austrian cuisine. It’s a great spot to refuel with pasta, gnocchi, or a pizza the size of a car tyre!
After leaving Tarvisio, you need to clock through the Alpe Adria “gateway”. Then, you will follow the old railway line for much of the way. With loads of tunnels carved into the mountainside and viaducts that offer impressive views of the valley below. You will also cross over the river on a bridge you can see through. Those of you not so keen on heights, keep your eyes straight ahead and keep pedalling.
This was my favourite part of the route, even though it was pouring rain the entire time we did it last year. However, we just kept singing and laughing and enjoying the journey. The main thing for us was that we had the proper rain gear, so it didn’t spoil the trip, and we could see this impressive part of the route. We stopped at a delightful café, Chiusaforte, previously the station platform and waiting room, with good cakes, excellent coffee and a warm welcome.
Detour to Slovenia: Gemona del Friuli to Goriška Brda
My friend had not been to this area of Slovenia, so I decided to make a detour to the wine area of Goriška Brda. This area, often called the “Tuscany of Slovenia,” is a hidden gem filled with rolling vineyards, olive groves, thousands of fruit trees and charming villages. I think it is well worth a visit and will give you a taste of Slovenia. Making you want to return and explore more.
The roads here are quieter, winding through hills and offering spectacular views at every turn. Stop by a local winery to taste some of the region’s famous Rebula wine. And don’t miss the chance to explore medieval villages like Šmartno, with its narrow cobblestone streets and friendly locals.
Rejoining the Route: Goriška Brda to Grado
After soaking up the tranquillity of Goriška Brda, it’s time to head back towards Italy. Heading to the Adriatic and the town of Grado, an island linked to the mainland via a built-up road. Grado is the official end of the Alpe Adria as you reach the warm waters of the Adriatic. Grado is a popular summer destination for sun lovers, with many hotels and accommodations stretching miles along this island. It has a pretty old town, perfect for a cold beer, antipasti and some serious people watching. My only complaint about this area is that millions of little flies get everywhere. One even went in my eye, which was incredibly painful. So, make sure you wear your sunglasses and keep your mouth shut.
We had a lovely evening in Grado, enjoying the seaside, dancing in the street, guzzling ice cream and generally soaking up the atmosphere.
Heading north again: Grado to Udine finishing off the Alpe Adria adventure
The ride to Udine is a joy, with mostly flat terrain and the occasional gentle hill to remind you that you’re still in cycling country.
Udine is a treasure trove of culture and history, with its Venetian-style piazzas, lively cafés, and a castle offering panoramic views of the city. It’s the perfect place to wrap up your ride with a celebratory meal—perhaps some risotto or a plate of frico, a local cheese delicacy. Think “death by cheese”—you get the idea.
The Journey Back: Udine to Villach by Train
As your cycling adventure winds down, it’s time to give your legs a well-deserved break. From Udine, hop on a train back to Villach. The train journey offers a relaxing end to your trip as you watch the landscapes you’ve just cycled through unfold from the comfort of your seat. It is a jam-packed train, full of cyclists either out for a day on their bikes or they too have completed the Alpe Adria route. There won’t be a lot of personal space on the train. A top tip would be to go to the loo before you get on the train.
Once back in Villach, you can enjoy Austrian hospitality another night or continue your journey back to Salzburg, knowing you’ve conquered one of Europe’s most scenic and rewarding bike paths.
So, whether you’re marvelling at the mountains or braving a rainy day in the Alps, swatting flies near Grado, or sipping wine in Goriška Brda, remember that the true joy of cycling lies not just in the destination but in the discoveries made along the way.
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